Nakami-jiru

In Okinawa nakami means the innards, and the saying that Okinawans eat every part of the pig except its squeal starts here. The cleaning is the whole job. MAFF's recipe rubs the stomach and intestines with okara or flour, then boils and drains them six or seven times to lose the smell and fat. After that they simmer for about two hours and go into the broth with shiitake strips. A pinch of hihatsu (island long pepper) or grated ginger goes on top at the table.

Mie in Kumoji washes the tripe again and again and simmers it with kunenbo citrus peel and ginger until the broth runs clear. On Zamami, Ao no Umi stir-fries the same offal as nakami-irichii. Supermarkets sell nakami-jiru in retort pouches.