On of Yaeyama
御嶽(オン)OnUtakiPartly openMisaki-on founded after 1500; Miyatori-on recorded in the Yaeyama-jima Yuraiki of 1705
In the Yaeyama Islands the sacred groves known elsewhere in Okinawa as utaki are called on, and each village keeps its own; many have a torii, a prayer hall and a walled inner sanctuary that visitors must not enter. Misaki-on and Miyatori-on in central Ishigaki are designated cultural properties that still hold rites, and they can close on festival days.
Yaeyama people say on where the main island says utaki. An on usually has a torii at the entrance, a prayer hall and, behind a stone gate, the ibi, which is the innermost sanctuary where the god comes down. Men are generally barred from the ibi. The gods of an on protect the village and its founders and bring good harvests and safe voyages, and women have served as their priestesses.
Misaki-on stands near the Yaeyama Museum in central Ishigaki. In 1500 the armies of Chuzan and Miyako came to put down the rebellion of Oyake Akahachi, and as they sailed home a woman named Maitsuba fasted and prayed on this spot for their safe passage. When every ship reached Okinawa safely, an on was built here, and from then on Yaeyama's priestesses joined the kingdom's ranks of holy women. A stone gate crowned with a flaming jewel separates the ibi, and its design is said to echo Sonohyan-utaki at Shuri on a small scale. The prefecture designated both the building and the site in February 1956.
Miyatori-on, called Meeturu-on in the local dialect, holds the story of how the four old villages of Ishigaki began. The Yaeyama-jima Yuraiki of 1705 says that when three siblings began to worship here the crops flourished, and people gathered round them until the settlement grew into the villages of Ishigaki and Tonoshiro. Its torii, prayer hall, wooden gate, stone ibi gate and shrine line up on a north–south axis, and the red-tiled prayer hall dates from 1923. Kohamoto-on in Tonoshiro keeps the older form without a torii or prayer hall, and it marks where the brother and sister who brought rice farming to Yaeyama are said to have lived.
Visiting with care
Ishigaki City's education board explains that an on is used for the village's rites and carries many restrictions, and it asks visitors to cooperate so that the folk culture can be kept and passed on.
- Never enter the ibi, the walled inner sanctuary behind the stone gate; men are generally forbidden to enter it, and visitors should stay out entirely
- Keep out of every area marked off limits; these are working shrines that local people protect
- On festival days, such as the harvest festival, an on may be closed to visitors
- Leave rental cars in a car park and walk in; the lanes to on such as Misaki-on pass people's homes
- Stand back from the haiden, the prayer hall, while anyone is praying
- Don't photograph priestesses or rites
- Leave offerings and the stones of the grove as they are
- Dress modestly when you visit, as you would at any shrine
Worth knowing
- Ishigaki City's education board publishes leaflets on its designated on; call its cultural property section on 0980-83-7269 with questions.
- Check whether the harvest festival is under way before you visit, because an on can be closed that day.
- Akairome-Miyatori-on in Kabira is one of the four sacred groves of Kabira and the site of a harvest rite in which people carry a bale-shaped stone around the grounds.
Go and see
Related places場所
FAQ
Quick answers about On of Yaeyamaよくある質問
What is an on in Yaeyama?
An on is a sacred grove in the Yaeyama Islands, and the main island of Okinawa calls the same kind of place an utaki. Each village keeps its own, and visitors must stay out of the inner sanctuary called the ibi.
Can you visit Misaki-on in Ishigaki?
Yes. Ishigaki City's leaflet invites visitors to Misaki-on and asks them to stay out of its off-limits areas. It is a prefecture-designated building and historic site that still holds rites, and it may close during the harvest festival.
Can you visit On of Yaeyama?
Partly open. Never enter the ibi, the walled inner sanctuary behind the stone gate; men are generally forbidden to enter it, and visitors should stay out entirely. Keep out of every area marked off limits; these are working shrines that local people protect. On festival days, such as the harvest festival, an on may be closed to visitors. Leave rental cars in a car park and walk in; the lanes to on such as Misaki-on pass people's homes.
How should you behave at On of Yaeyama?
At On of Yaeyama: Stand back from the haiden, the prayer hall, while anyone is praying. Don't photograph priestesses or rites. Leave offerings and the stones of the grove as they are. Dress modestly when you visit, as you would at any shrine.







