Tonaki-jima
渡名喜島Tunachi26°22′ N 127°08′ EKerama Islandssand lanesfukugi treesred-tiled houses
Tonaki-jima is a 3.58 km² island of 291 people that the Kume Shosen ferry reaches from Naha's Tomari Port in about two hours, and its whole village of white sand lanes and fukugi windbreaks has been a national Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings since 25 May 2000.
Photo Nesnad · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0 and others, credited in the gallery
Tonaki was once two islands, and sand built up between them to make the flat ground where the port and the village now sit. Because the island takes the brunt of typhoons, families set their house plots below the level of the road inside walls of table coral and coral limestone, and planted fukugi trees between the walls as a windbreak that also stops fire. The lanes stay white sand. The national government selected the village as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings on 25 May 2000, covering 21.4 ha.
Village Road 1 is the lane people come to see, lined with fukugi and stone walls, and small foot lights set into the sand switch on at dusk. Fukugi has been the village tree since 1 July 1992, and the village mascot is the fairy of a fukugi said to be 300 years old. The prefecture says the island is one of the places in Okinawa with the most sea turtles, and the whole island is a prefectural natural park.
Tonaki grows mochikibi millet, which the prefecture says has a name as a Tonaki brand, along with island carrots, and a couple runs a small diner inside the ferry terminal. The village counted 291 residents at the end of December 2024. The Kashikii tug-of-war prays for a good harvest, and the water sports day, with tug-of-war in the sea, has run for over 100 years.
Getting there
Kume Shosen's ferry between Tomari Port in Naha and Kume-jima calls at Tonaki on some sailings. The crossing from Tomari takes about two hours, and the run from Kanegusuku Port on Kume about an hour and a half.
Getting around
On foot, with a rental bicycle for the far end of the island. The village fills the flat sandy neck between the island's two hills, the Tonaki Village History and Folklore Museum is a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal, and the tourism association says the island has no rental-car shop.
Riding on Tonaki-jima
Tonaki's village lanes are white sand and the island is 12.5 km around the shore, so most of it is walking country. The tourism association suggests a rental bicycle for the Shimajirimo walking path, which it calls far on foot.
The Tonaki tourism association says bicycles are available to rent on the island.
December to March
In winter the north wind can stop the Kume Shosen ferry, and with one boat route in and out the island is easy to get stuck on, so build a spare day into the plan. The history museum closes from 28 December to 4 January as well as every Monday and Thursday.
Worth knowing
- Walk Village Road 1 after dark, when the foot lights come on along the sand.
- Climb to the Unda lookout (大本田展望台) for a view over Kume, Aguni and the Keramas; the village says it was a beacon relay in the kingdom era. The Nishimori lookout is closed after a landslide.
- At Anjera-hama on the south-east shore, sea turtles come in over the seagrass at high tide and the village says you can watch them from the road.
- Check the Kume Shosen sailing for your return before you leave Tomari, since only some sailings call at Tonaki.
FAQ
Quick answers about Tonaki-jimaよくある質問
How do you get to Tonaki Island?
By the Kume Shosen ferry from Tomari Port in Naha, which calls at Tonaki-jima on some of its sailings to Kume-jima. The crossing takes about two hours from Naha and about an hour and a half from Kume.
Why are the streets on Tonaki made of sand?
The flat land under Tonaki's village is sand that built up between two former islands, and the lanes were never paved. The village describes white sand lanes, sunken house plots and fukugi windbreaks as the features of its preservation district.
Is Tonaki a traditional village preservation district?
Yes. The national government selected Tonaki's village as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings on 25 May 2000. The district covers 21.4 ha.
How big is Tonaki-jima?
Tonaki-jima covers 3.58 km² and is home to about 291 people.
Can you cycle on Tonaki-jima?
Tonaki's village lanes are white sand and the island is 12.5 km around the shore, so most of it is walking country. The tourism association suggests a rental bicycle for the Shimajirimo walking path, which it calls far on foot.
What is Tonaki-jima like in winter?
In winter the north wind can stop the Kume Shosen ferry, and with one boat route in and out the island is easy to get stuck on, so build a spare day into the plan. The history museum closes from 28 December to 4 January as well as every Monday and Thursday.
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