Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters
旧海軍司令部壕26°11′ N 127°41′ EMemorialDug in 1944; occupied until the commander's death on 13 June 1945; 300 m restored and opened in March 1970
The Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters in Tomigusuku is the tunnel complex where the naval commander Minoru Ota and his staff died in June 1945, with about 300 m of passages open to walk. Adult admission is ¥600, and the site opens daily from 9:00 to 17:00.
Photo Ray_go · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0 and others, credited in the gallery
Navy construction troops dug these tunnels by hand with picks and hoes in 1944. Concrete and timber braced the vaulted passages, which ran for about 450 m and were meant to ride out naval bombardment through a long siege. Some 4,000 men sheltered in them. About 10,000 Japanese navy personnel were on Okinawa when the battle began, and about 8,300 of them were on the Oroku Peninsula. There were no wells or kitchens inside, so men went out to the village well about 200 m away to fetch water, and many never came back.
Ota arrived on Okinawa on 20 January 1945 and died here on 13 June. A week before his death he sent a telegram to the Navy Vice Minister reporting how the people of Okinawa had fought, because he feared that their part would otherwise be forgotten. The text hangs at the entrance to the museum beside his photograph. Inside the tunnel, the walls of the staff officers' room still carry the marks of the grenades with which officers took their own lives.
The tunnels lay abandoned after the war. People from the village of Tomigusuku gathered the remains first, and later the Okinawa Kaiyukai of former navy men took over. Ota's remains and those of his staff were recovered only in 1952. In March 1970 about 300 m around the commander's room were restored and opened, and the remains collected here now lie with other war dead at the National Okinawa War Dead Cemetery in Mabuni. A memorial built in 1958 in the shape of a warship stands at the top of the park, and the plaza in front of it looks across to Shuri and the towns of the south.
Visiting with care
Men died in these tunnels, and the site keeps them close to the state in which they were found.
- Admission is ¥600 for anyone 15 and over and ¥300 for ages 6 to 14; groups of 20 or more pay ¥400 and ¥200
- Showing a Yui Rail one-day pass brings the price down to ¥480 for adults and ¥210 for children
- The tunnel is reached by 105 steps down; wheelchair users enter by the sloped exit and should call ahead on 098-850-4055
- Groups of 20 or more should book in advance
- The staff officers' room still shows the marks of the grenades with which officers killed themselves; move through it quietly
- Keep your voice low in the tunnels
- Don't touch or mark the walls, including the commander's room where his favourite song is still written
Worth knowing
- Allow 30–40 minutes for the museum and the tunnel together.
- The car park nearest the tunnel entrance is at the top of the hill; the exit comes out partway down the slope.
- The ticket desk takes cash, credit cards and PayPay.
- A Japanese-only smartphone guide set costs ¥1,000 for adults.
- The site has no lockers, but staff will hold suitcases and strollers at the counter.
FAQ
Quick answers about Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquartersよくある質問
How much does the Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters cost?
The Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters costs ¥600 for visitors 15 and over and ¥300 for ages 6 to 14. A Yui Rail one-day pass brings the adult price down to ¥480.
How long does a visit to the Navy Underground Headquarters take?
A visit to the Navy Underground Headquarters in Tomigusuku takes about 30–40 minutes for the museum and the tunnel together. The tunnel starts with 105 steps down.
Is the Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters wheelchair accessible?
Partly. The visitor centre is barrier-free, but the tunnel begins with 105 steps, so wheelchair users enter by the sloped exit. The site lends two electric-assist wheelchairs and asks visitors to call ahead.
Can you visit Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters?
Open to visitors. Admission is ¥600 for anyone 15 and over and ¥300 for ages 6 to 14; groups of 20 or more pay ¥400 and ¥200. Showing a Yui Rail one-day pass brings the price down to ¥480 for adults and ¥210 for children. The tunnel is reached by 105 steps down; wheelchair users enter by the sloped exit and should call ahead on 098-850-4055. Groups of 20 or more should book in advance.
How should you behave at Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters?
At Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters: The staff officers' room still shows the marks of the grenades with which officers killed themselves; move through it quietly. Keep your voice low in the tunnels. Don't touch or mark the walls, including the commander's room where his favourite song is still written.
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