Shima Cafe Heartland

Heartland is a seaside café a few steps from the cow monument at Kuroshima port that also rents bikes, so you can hire one, ride the island and come back for Yaeyama soba or tempura-fried ice cream before the boat. The café puts Kuroshima at 10.02 km² with a 12.62 km shoreline and a high point of 14 m, and reckons on about two hours to ride around at an easy pace.

Carry water when you set off, since the café warns that vending machines are scarce once you leave the port. The rules it posts are simple: ride single file on the narrow lanes, leave the phone alone while riding, cover up in the villages and take your rubbish home, since the island has no bins.