Wansaka Oura Park

Ten east-coast villages put up the money for this place, and it feels like it: a farm stand, a parlour, a café and a small kitchen looking over Oura Bay and the Yanbaru hills. Ataiguwa Kitchen makes its soba with a salt broth of bonito, kelp, flying fish and pork, without additives or chemical seasoning, over aged noodles. Behind the shop a mangrove road leads out into the tidal forest for a small fee paid at the till.

On a ride it gives you a dependable lunch on the quiet east side of Nago, north of Henoko on the road toward Higashi. Kitchen hours are short, so plan to arrive by 14:00 on a weekday.